Tree Trust	Chapter 6 - Planting Know How

Target Your Goal Like so many planting projects, yours started with a simple idea that grew and grew. Now it's time to turn the idea into action. In this chapter we give you information you need to plan a strategy and carry out a project. We conduct dozens of planting projects involving thousands of volunteers each year. For each planting project, we lay out a timeline--a road map that describes how to get from an idea to a completed project. Unfold this page to see an example timeline. Planting Day Planting day is the climax of your planning effort. To ensure that the day goes smoothly, get organized. Divide the responsibilities of your tree planting event among several people. Delegate! Put one person in charge on planting day. This may not be the person who coordinates the event or chairs the committee. It is a person who can think on his or her feet and effectively direct the work of volunteers. The person in charge knows the logistics of the event and the desired tree-planting method. The person in charge must be able to communicate with other leaders throughout the event. He or she should avoid the temptation to plant trees and focus entirely on keeping the event flowing smoothly. For success, plan an orientation meeting for volunteer leaders immediately before the tree planting event. Follow it with a planting demonstration. Leaders can then put on mini-planting demonstrations for each work crew. Schedule breaks throughout the planting event. Have a first-aid station and restrooms available. Be sure that volunteers know where to find them. Make a backup plan for bad weather.

Before planting day: ° Establish a vision ° Generate ideas ° Set priorities ° Set goals and   objectives ° Develop work plan.

It was truly a community effort and everyone really enjoyed the day. It was a time of fellowship and camaraderie as well as a day of work. I heard many people say, "We should do something like this again." We had several suggestions for other community projects. When we were finished planting, everyone enjoyed a delicious lunch and more fellowship at the church hall. Because everything worked so smoothly and we finished earlier than anticipated many of the volunteers helped rake the church lawn and clean up the cemetery. Fourteen picked up a two-mile stretch of highway adopted by our church. It was truly a good day for the environment. Charlotte Johnson Whalan Tree Board Links for More Information: ° Get the Job Done ° The Sky is the Limit

Planting Day Schedule Below are planting day schedules for actual events in Minnesota. We hope they help you plan a fun, effective day of work for volunteers in your community. Southgate Elementary School, Austin 7:30 Set out team stakes at each planting bed City pre-digs boulevard tree planting holes and bench holes 7:45 Staff briefing in front parking lot Agenda Preview the day Put name on every tool Headquarters/communication Safety Planting demonstrations 8:00 Nursery delivers plants Plants delivered to each bed Soak bare root trees & shrubs 8:30 Student green team members carry pails, shovels, etc. to sites Headquarters: Mrs. O & Mrs. T 8:45 3-5th grade classes pre-dig 9:30 holes for nursery and arboretum trees, return to classrooms 10:00 All school gathering/Opening Ceremony, Theme: "Growing Together With Southgate" 10:20 Students directed to sites Planting demos at each site PLANT! COMPOST! WOODCHIPS! WATER! Install rodent guards 11:15 Lunch served outdoors, staggered by grades Student Green Team eats 11:30 Coordinator meets student Green Team at lunch area Student green team does final touches, check watering, cleanup 1:45 Walk About by grade 2:15 Closing Ceremony Highway Enhancement Project, Lake City 7:00 Water truck fills water containers at each planting bed Safety committee sets out traffic control signs, cones, stakes and flagging for crowd control at ceremony and picnic sites Set up equipment drop off spot Set up P.A. system Plant materials delivered to each bed - bare root material soaked 8:00 Planting orientation and planting demonstration for team leaders Agenda Safety - Explorer Post Planting demonstration - Katie Name tags Cookies and coffee Deliver equip. to planting beds Fill barrels with water 8:30- 9:30 Volunteers check in, greeted Coral tools Distribute orange safety vests 9:00 Teams arrive Arbor Day Ceremony Volunteers go to planting beds Vans shuttle to south plant beds 9-12 Advisors do planting demos Plant trees, water Woodchips, rodent guards First aid/beverage station 11:30 Picnic Volunteer recognition ceremony 1:00 Pick up site, check watering

Select Quality Plants Trees and shrubs, often called stock, are available for purchase in different types. These types vary in terms of root mass, size, relative cost, ease of planting, handling, season of availability and establishment success. Large trees and shrubs are sold by the caliper inch. Caliper inch is the diameter of the stem measured at 6 inches above the ground for plants up to 4 inches in diameter, or 12 inches above the ground for larger trees. Smaller shrubs are sold by height or by the size of container. Evergreen trees and shrubs are generally sold by height or by the size of the container which the plant is in (e.g. 3 feet tall or a #5 container). How to Care for Stock Before Planting Proper care of a tree prior to planting is crucial to its survival. Certain precautions need to be taken with all trees. Each type of tree being planted, bare root, balled and burlapped (B&B) or containerized has specific needs. Handle trees with care. Do not drop them. This could damage roots directly, or it could cause the root ball to break apart. When the root ball breaks, small feeder roots get torn from larger roots. For some trees, that's all it takes to bring on death. Watch out for branch tips when you move the tree around. Be careful to leave buds, leaves and branches on the tree. Use the same care to prevent human injuries such as poked eyes and scratched skin. Protect trunks and bark from tools, equipment and rubbing. Temporary guards, such as those made from cardboard, are helpful, especially for heavy trees. · Cover plants with a tarp if transporting them on streets or highways, particularly if leaves have emerged, and weather is hot and dry. · Keep plants shaded and root balls moist until planting. Roots can dry out and die quickly on both plants with bare roots and those whose roots are in containers. Mulch potted and B&B stock to keep roots moist. · Carry container-grown, potted or B&B stock by the pot or root ball. · Use ball hooks, a ball cart or a front end loader to carry B&B material. Dragging or rolling may cause roots to separate from the trunk. Some bare root trees must be "sweated" before planting in order to break dormancy. This process creates a greenhouse-like atmosphere that will speed up the bud breaking process. To sweat plants: lay down a sheet of plastic in a warm, protected, shaded place (such as a garage or outbuilding), cover the plastic with wet straw, lay plants on the straw and cover them with another layer of wet straw, then cover plants and straw with a sheet of plastic. Keep the plants moist and warm (temperature of 45 to 70 degrees F) until the buds begin to swell. The plants can be installed once the sweating process is complete and the weather outside is warm and humid (mid-to late May). Katie Himanga

Types of Planting Stock ° Seedlings and    Transplants ° Bare root ° Potted ° Container-grown and    field-potted ° Balled and burlapped    (B&B) ° Tree spade moved. These bare root trees need "sweating" before planting: ° Hackberry ° Birch & Hawthorn ° Ironwood ° Kentucky coffeetree ° Amur corktree &    Oak.

Comparison of Types of Planting Stock

Comparison of Types of Planting Stock (cont.)

Beware of "fresh potted" trees. These are trees that a nursery buys bare root and transplants into a pot. The roots are cut to fit the pot. When they are fresh, they do not have enough fine roots to hold the soil together. As a result, any fine roots that do grow tend to tear off with the soil at the time of planting. The trees go into shock and may not even have enough roots to hold themselves up. Potted trees are fine after they've grown in the pot for several months to a year. "Field potted" means that the nursery dug the tree with roots and soil in place and set it into a pot in the field. If the pot is the right size for the plant, "field potted" trees have an adequate root system.

Do not accept any plant material that does not conform to your order/contract and do not accept poor quality plants. Do not accept heavily sheared evergreens. Minimum tree spade size requirements are from Inspection and Contract Administration Guidelines for Mn/DOT Landscape Projects, March 1, 1993 edition.

The Best Time of Year to Plant Trees and Shrubs Spring and fall are the best time to plant trees and shrubs because temperatures are neither too hot nor too cold and soil moisture is plentiful. Trees planted during summer need more regular watering. April through early June is spring planting season and late September to November is fall planting season. Fall is a time of active root growth for many species. Root growth continues until the soil temperature falls below 45 degrees F. Seedlings and bare root trees are best planted in the spring. The following tree species are specifically not recommended for fall planting: fruit trees, mountain ash, birch, willow, linden, pagoda dogwood, sumac, oak, poplar, honeylocust, maple, hackberry, Russian olive, ironwood and hawthorn. How to Judge Quality The order form or contract for the plant material used in the planting project should specify: the species and/or variety of the plants, the size of the plants and the type of planting stock. With some plant material, it may also be desirable to specify a grade, or level of quality, of material. Whether you personally go to pick out the plants at a nursery or you are simply accepting a delivery, there are several things you should check before you accept any plants. Look at these: Species or Cultivar: Read the tags on each plant. Is it what you ordered? Size: Are they the right size? Does the root ball size match the caliper size? For each inch of trunk caliper, the ball should be 11-12 inches wide. Plants with good form require less maintenance than plants with poor form. Look for: Trunk: straight; above middle of root ball; branches at regular intervals; no wounds except for superficial scrapes which do not go through the bark; no discolored, sunken areas, or holes. Branches: balanced on the trunk; 2-4 inches of new shoot growth from previous year; flexible, with healthy, living buds; few broken branches. Leaves: should be normal size and color for that plant at that time of year and should not show spots, blights, distorted shape or wilting. Reject deciduous bare root material that has leaves on it. Reject evergreens with limp shoots. Roots: should not be exposed or covered by more than 4 inches of soil in potted or B&B stock; in bare root stock they should be firm, moist and white inside, not dry, black, crushed, torn or mushy. Minimum Tree Spade Size Requirements

Call Before You Dig Locate Underground Utilities It is wise to know the location of underground utility lines before you start digging a hole to plant a tree. There may be television, telephone or even electrical lines buried within a foot of the surface of the soil. To find out where lines are buried, call Gopher State One Call, the state-wide notification center. When you call Gopher State One Call, an attendant asks where you plan to dig. The center then notifies all the utilities that have lines in that area. Each utility sends an employee, called a locator, to mark the lines that run near the place you plan to dig. If you see "OK" painted on the ground, it means that the locator did not find any underground lines in the area. Call Gopher State One Call two to ten full working days before you plan to dig. That gives each utility time to mark their line locations. In the Metro area call (651) 454-0002. In Greater Minnesota call (800) 252-1166. We encourage you to call at least four days ahead of time. Do not wait until Thursday if you plan to plant trees on Saturday. In this case, the law allows each utility until the following Monday to have the lines located. What the marks mean: Red=Electric Yellow=Gas and Oil Orange=Telephone and Television Blue=Water Green=Sewer Pink=Temporary Survey Markings White=Proposed Excavation If you use power equipment to dig holes, the law says you must call Gopher State One Call. If you dig by hand, we encourage you to call. When you hire a contractor to dig, it is her or his job to make the call. Keep in mind that the locators may not mark private utilities. If you have a propane tank or a yard light for example, you may have to figure out the line location yourself. Before you call Gopher State One Call, put a stake (preferably white) at each spot where you plan to dig. Also mark the spot by spraying white paint on the ground. The paint is helpful if somebody moves a stake before planting day. If you plan to dig up an entire planting bed, mark the outside boundary with paint and stakes. When you call, ask that the locators check for utilities in an area 10 feet around each stake or within each planting bed. If you discover a buried line, you may decide to plant your tree a few feet over from the spot you planned. To speed up your call, know the legal description of the place you plan to dig. The attendant at Gopher State One Call will ask for the county, township, range, section and quarter section. They are all numbers, except for the quarter section. For example, Apple Lane in Lake City is located in "Wabasha County, Township 111 North, Range 12 West, Section 9, Northwest Quarter." Your city hall should have a map with this information. If you know this, the attendant won't have to look them up for you. The attendant will also ask for your name and phone number, the dates that you plan to dig, the street address and the name of the nearest cross (intersecting) street.

The greatest danger that trees pose to underground utility lines occurs at the time trees are planted. Gopher State One Call is the statewide notification center for excavation for the State of Minnesota. For more information, visit www.gohpherstateone call.org.

We try to give the utilities ten day notice when we do a large tree planting project. We schedule a meet and give them the full list and the route we plan to follow so that they can stay ahead of us. Henry Sorensen City of Red Wing Retired

The attendant will give you a "ticket number" when you call. Keep a record of the number; it is proof that you called. When you dig, stay at least 2 feet away from a marked utility. If you must go closer, work carefully with hand tools. If you know or suspect that a utility line is damaged, contact the utility immediately. Gopher State One Call and Tree Planting Projects If you think that locating underground utilities is a big deal when you plant one tree, imagine locating them for a project where 50 trees will be planted at 50 different addresses. Consider these alternatives: If you will plant trees at several locations in the same township, tell the Gopher State One Call attendant that you have multiple locations. Rather than have you list all the locations over the phone, and the attendant can, for example, ask each utility locator to get a list of the tree planting sites from city hall. Another alternative for big projects is to set up a meeting where you and locators from all the utilities meet right at the site. Call at least four days ahead of time and tell the Gopher State One Call attendant that you want to schedule a "meet." It helps to know the location of underground utilities early in the planning stages of a tree-planting project. Visit your city hall. Your city engineer may have maps that show the general locations of most utilities. Some tree planting project leaders send a letter, along with copies of their plans, to the affected utilities and ask for a letter of no objection. Regardless of your pre-planning success, you must follow up with a call to Gopher State One Call a few days before you actually start digging. Call Gopher State One Call at least two full working days before you plan to dig. Tree Trust

The New Way to Plant Trees A small seed sprouts into a tree, competing for its niche on the already overcrowded forest floor. The sapling fights to grow higher and claim its share of the sun. The tree battles the elements of nature and the animals of the forest. In the end it becomes a tower of green dominating the horizon. With the odds a tree has to overcome in its natural environment, the act of planting a tree appears to be fairly simple. Dig a hole, put in the tree and water it occasionally. Planting a tree in a loose, natural soil can be that simple, but planting a tree in a typically compacted unnatural soil is much more complex. Experience and good science teach us that a properly planted tree grows faster, stays healthier and lives longer than a tree hastily planted in a narrow hole with little mulch. What follows is a step by step process for planting trees under typical conditions. The first section is general steps for planting all types of trees. Specific instructions for each type of stock follows afterward. Evaluate your site and make adjustments if needed. Remember that care taken in planting benefits a tree throughout its life. The new way to plant trees.

Acts of Creation are ordinarily reserved for gods and poets. To plant a pine, one need only own a shovel. Aldo Leopold

Planting a tree too deep can kill the tree. Plant your tree just deep enough that its root collar (the bulge right above the root system) is just above the top of the soil. Many trees are planted too deep at the nursery so you may need to remove soil and prune roots down to where the first large side roots appear.

Planting Steps for a Healthier Tree Select Tree and Site Select the right location and the right tree. No amount of care in tree planting can make a red pine tree happy in heavy, alkaline soil. Even in perfectly formulated soil, sugar maple trees in downtown tree pits will suffer from sun scald every summer because they cannot tolerate heat reflected off of buildings. Choose your tree and planting site carefully! Prepare Site Draw a circle three to five times the root ball diameter with the center being the location of the tree. Remove sod or grass. Remove, till or break up the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Dig Hole Dig a hole in the center of this circle that is 1-foot larger in diameter than the root ball. Dig only as deep as the distance from the root collar to the bottom of the roots. Maintain undisturbed soil beneath the root ball to prevent the tree from settling. Place Tree Carefully place the tree in the center of the hole. Some trees require that a container or basket be removed (see Planting B&B Trees and Planting Containerized Trees for specific information on removing baskets and containers). Backfill Check that the tree is at the right depth and plumb. Fill the hole with the soil that was removed. As the backfill is added, lightly push the soil around the roots or water the soil to eliminate air pockets. Backfill to the height just below the root collar. To prevent compaction, do not pack soil after you water. Mulch Add 4 inches of organic mulch on top of the planting circle. Keep the mulch 4 inches away from the trunk to prevent fungus from growing on the tree trunk. Prune and Stake? At the time of planting, limit pruning to the removal of broken or dead branches and roots. Delay cosmetic pruning for a year. A tree should not be staked unless absolutely necessary due to extremely windy conditions or high risk of vandalism. Water The last, and one of the most important things to do is to water the tree. Thoroughly soak the soil around the tree. Water each day for the first week and less after that.

How to Plant Containerized Containerized trees come in plastic or paper containers or wooden bushel baskets. Depending on their size, they can weigh hundreds of pounds. Use care when moving them and setting them down. Do not drop! Pick up the bottom of the container, not the tree itself. Dollies are helpful for moving large containerized trees. This is easier on the tree and the people moving them. Improper moving can severely damage the root ball and the root structure. To plant a containerized tree, follow the planting steps on page 112. Once the hole is ready, prepare the tree. Remember that the tree may be planted too deep in the pot. Remove soil down to the root collar where the first large side roots begin Determine if the tree roots hold the soil together in the pot or if the soil is loose If the soil is packed or the pot is rootbound, carefully remove the tree from the pot If the tree roots are wound inside the pot, make a vertical slice, 1 to 1½ inch deep, up the sides of each quarter and an X cut across the bottom of the soil ball If the tree is too large or the root ball is loose, place the tree and container in the planting hole and adjust for final position before removing the container Carefully cut around the base of the container and then make a slice up one side of the pot before gently backfilling and the removing the sides of the container Most containers will not break down if buried and should be removed completely, but for large trees or trees growing in loose soil, the risk of root damage is too great. In those cases, leave the bottom of the pot in the hole. Roots grown out, not down. Janette Monear

The planting of a tree shows faith in the future. Charles Schultz A tree that is root bound is one that has been growing too long in a container. Its roots totally fill the container and often grow out of the drainage holes in search of soil. You may have to lay the tree on its side and press the pot to free it from the soil ball.

In Germany, it was customary to plant a tree at a wedding. As each child arrived, an apple tree was planted for every boy and a pear for each girl. The longevity and fruitfulness of the trees were thought to give strength to the marriage and children. Dr. Kim D. Coder

How to Plant Bare Root Trees Bare root trees, trees with no soil on their roots, are an option for plantings of small to medium-size deciduous trees and shrubs in the spring. Bare root trees are planted following the steps outlined on page 112, with extra attention given to some areas. Bare root trees must be kept cool and moist at all times. If the roots dry out for even a short time, they can be damaged or killed. This is most important for the fine, hair-like feeder roots. Store bare root trees with organic mulch, such as wood chips, that completely covers the root system. Keep the roots damp. A shady location out of the wind is best. When moving the trees to the hole or container, keep them covered with mulch or a wet burlap sack and move quickly. On a windy, sunny day, uncovered roots dry out and are damaged in as little as 30 seconds. The perfect tree planting day is cool, calm and damp. Take care to plant trees before the roots dry out. Have the planting site prepared before moving the tree so no time is wasted with the roots uncovered. The hole must be large enough to spread all of the roots out. Do not bend or curve them around, as this could cause root girdling, a potentially fatal condition. Prune any broken roots with a sharp pruner. Do not leave torn or rough ends. Identify the root collar. Keep the root collar right at grade level to maintain the proper depth. Keep the tree straight when backfilling. There is no root ball to hold the tree straight, so take extra care when packing in the soil. Occasionally, bare root trees need staking for the first growing season. How to Plant Seedlings Tree seedlings offer an attractive way to plant large numbers of trees affordably and easily. Seedlings are available from a variety of sources and can often be obtained for free. The small size of seedlings enables people of almost any age and ability to participate in planting. Seedlings are planted essentially the same way as larger trees, but with much less effort. Dig a hole large enough to spread out the root system. Place the seedling in the hole, being sure to spread out all of the roots without bending them. Be careful to place the tree at the right depth when backfilling the hole. Mulch and water the seedling to finish the job. Maintenance of seedlings is limited to watering and weeding. The smaller root systems of seedlings will dry out faster than larger trees so more frequent watering should occur with care being taken not to over water. Tree seedlings are more likely to be affected from the competition of weeds and grasses, so regular weeding of the planting areas and replenishment of the wood chips is recommended. Tree tubes are helpful in increasing survival rates of deciduous seedlings. These tubes encourage growth and reduce damage by animals. In areas with high deer populations, they can be essential. Tubes can substantially increase the success of seedling plantings, but they will also add significantly to the cost.

How to Plant Balled and Burlapped (B&B) Trees Balled and burlapped (B&B) trees are trees that have the root ball held together by burlap encased in a wire basket. B&B trees are generally larger than containerized trees and can weigh hundreds of pounds. It is important to handle B&B trees carefully. Do not drop! Lifting these trees, especially larger ones, is difficult, but it is important that they be picked up properly. B&B trees can be moved using hooks, such as hay bale hooks, on the wire basket. Tree dollies, large two-wheeled carts, are also helpful in moving large B&B trees. This is easier on the trees and the people moving them. Do not try to move trees using the twine or the trunk. Improper moving can severely damage the root ball and the root structure. Their size can make planting them difficult, but the planting procedure for B&B trees still follows the steps outlined on page 112. Do not remove the basket or burlap until the tree is positioned in the hole. This keeps the root ball intact. Carefully loosen the top of the burlap Probe with a wire or remove soil to determine where the root collar is located–right above where the large roots begin Dig the hole just deep enough that the root collar is one to three inches higher than the surrounding ground Carefully place the tree in the hole and cut away as much of the wire basket as you can without disturbing the soil ball Cut and remove all twine and rope from around the ball Remove the nails holding the burlap together and gently fold the burlap back Gently cut away loose burlap without damaging the root ball Leave the remaining burlap and wire under the root ball. Most roots grown out, not down.

Newly transplanted trees absorb water from a diminished rooting area. Roots must grow into surrounding soils before a larger soil volume can be tapped for moisture. Tree roots grow approximately 18 inches in length annually in the Midwest. Trees in Minnesota will become established within one to one-and-one-half years for each caliper inch of stem. Thus, it takes two to three years before a 2-inchcaliper tree is established.

He that plants trees loves others beside himself. English Proverb Links for More Information: ° The Sky is the Limit ° Select Quality Plants ° Call Before You Dig

Trees in Above-Ground Planters Planting trees in above-ground planters offers a possibility for landscaping in urban areas with limited space and/or poor soil. Advantages of using aboveground planters are: Ability to avoid de-icing salt and pollutant run-off Ability to landscaping areas where soil is marginal or non-existent Plants can be moved or elevated if needed. The urban environment is stressful for trees planted at ground level and trees in above-ground planters have the added stress of restricted root space and exposure to root freezing. Special care needs to be taken in the selection, planting and maintenance of these plants. The life expectancy of an urban tree in an above-ground planter is probably less than 10 years; however, carefully selecting the species to be planted can increase the life expectancy. Planting trees that are small to medium-size and slow growing may increase the length of time that a tree can survive in an aboveground planter. The soil volume needed for smaller trees is less, and slower growing trees do not outgrow their planting spaces as quickly. Some trees that may be used in planters include: flowering crabapple, hawthorn, mountain-ash, honeylocust and river birch. The latter two will require a larger planting area. Planting in above-ground planters has inherent limitations and problems, most notably the size of the planter. A minimum size for a planter is 5-feet wide by 2-feet deep. An adequate soil volume is needed for the root system to develop and function, to maintain moisture, and to limit temperature fluctuations. Roots confined to too small an area for the species planted are less likely to develop properly and sustain growth. The smaller the planter, the more likely it is to dry out. Plants will need the equivalent of 1 inch of water per week. Small planters cannot hold enough moisture to keep up with the transpiration of urban trees in the summer, and require higher maintenance for the watering of the tree. Lack of protection for the roots of trees in small planters can also lead to damage from excessive heat or cold. Planters are commonly lined with two inches of closed-cell foam insulation to minimize this problem. One way to increase the size, life span and variety of trees in planters is to plant groups of trees, shrubs and perennials in larger above-ground planting spaces. By sharing root space, the volume available to individual trees is increased. The larger size of the planter also helps protect tree roots from extreme heat and cold. The microclimate created when plants grow together lessens transpiration by lowering leaf temperature and wind speed. The use of clump forms, shrubs and perennials also results in more naturalistic plantings by varying the form and height of plant materials.

Water When newly planted trees go without enough water, growth slows to a crawl. This delays establishment and may even lead to the death of leaves, branches, roots or the whole tree. Too often the canopy of the tree ends up smaller than it was at the time of planting. In this section we shed light on recent science-based prescriptions for watering newly planted trees. For the most part, trees can only take up water from soil that is in direct contact with roots. Even in the best conditions, newly transplanted trees use water from a relatively small volume of soil. To make matters worse, roots of bare root, balled & burlaped, and spaded trees are cut during transplanting. Their ability to absorb water is compromised. Since container-grown trees grow in a small volume of soil, they need daily watering the first few weeks after planting just like other types of stock. Within two to three days after spring or summer planting, the soil around the roots of trees dries enough to impede root growth. Newly transplanted trees in the Midwest benefit from daily watering for the first one to two weeks. Apply 1 to 1½ gallons of water for each inch of trunk diameter. After that, water trees every two to three days for the next two to three months and then weekly until established. The more closely you match your watering frequency to the optimum, the quicker trees become established. Reduce watering in cool, cloudy, or wet weather if the soil is poorly drained (soil drains less than 3/4 inches per hour). Eliminate daily irrigation in poorly drained soil. For trees planted in the early spring or in the fall, delete daily irrigation. Water every two or three days for a few months. Do the same for trees planted where drainage is poor. After it rains, stop watering until the rainwater drains from the soil. Stop watering in the autumn once leaves fall from trees. Trees planted in winter need little irrigation. There are two things you can do to reduce the water requirements of newly planted trees. This first is to plant smaller-sized trees. Small trees have less root loss and recover faster than large caliper trees. Secondly, put mulch over the soil after planting. Mulch reduces evaporation and conserves water. An investment in frequent watering helps insure against tree death and the cost of replanting trees.   Irrigation Guidelines for Establishing Trees   For well- drained sites during the growing season in the Midwest

Historically treewatering guidelines have suggested watering trees every 7 to 10 days with 1 to 1½ inches of water. While this frequency and amount of water may work in some situations, research within the last five years from the Morton Arboretum and the University of Florida at Gainesville suggests more frequent watering is necessary for optimal tree establishment. This section contributed by Richard Hauer, Shade Tree Program, Coordinator, Minnesota Department of Agriculture.

Un-staked trees develop stronger trunks and root systems than those that are staked. Some new trees should be staked. Most should not.

To Stake or Not to Stake People in the business of caring for trees often disagree about the value of staking newly planted trees. Expect conflicting advice. Although the trend is away from staking, you should make the decision based on your specific situation. We have experience planting trees of all types and we rarely stake any of them. Here are some facts about staking: When wind blows a tree around, it sends signals to the root system. The root system starts growing earlier in the spring on an un-staked tree than it does on a staked tree. The root system is stronger than on a staked tree. The trunks of un-staked trees grow thick faster than staked trees. They are widest at the bottom and taper off as you go up the tree. They grow this way in response to moving around in the wind, which makes them stronger. Staked trees tend to have narrower, weaker trunks with less taper. Sometimes the trunk becomes wider above the ties, where the tree moves around in the wind, then it is lower on the tree. Minimize this problem by tying the tree loosely enough that it can move around in the wind. Ties strangle trees if they are put on tightly and left for more than one season. Wire run through a hose is often to blame. We see trees strangled with twine, too. When trees blow around in the wind and hit the top of the stakes, they are wounded. To avoid this problem, set the stakes more than a foot away from the tree and put the ties at the top of the stakes. During the first year, staked trees tend to grow taller than un-staked trees. If you have decided to stake your new trees, do it the best way possible. We recommend the following method: Use two to three wooden stakes Use ties made of a soft material like strips of rags, old nylons or webbed strap For most trees, use short stakes and tie the tree halfway between the ground and the first branches For a tree that is tall and spindly and cannot stand on its own, use tall stakes and tie the tree above the first branches Put one stake on the windward (south) side of the tree Do not let the stakes stick up higher than the ties Tie the tree loose enough that it can sway in the wind Remember to remove the stakes and ties before the end of the first season.

The right way to stake most trees (left), the wrong way to stake any tree (center), and the right way to stake a skinny tree that cannot stand on its own (right). See how many things you can find wrong in the center diagram above. Don't use old methods that harm trees! Don't leave stakes and ties on too long. The result is a tree with a weak trunk and a weak root system. Always remove the stakes and ties within a year of planting. Don't use fence posts with anchors. You pull out a lot of tree roots when you pull out the stake because the roots grow all around the anchor. Don't run wire through a hose and use it to tie the tree. This is an old planting method and we found that it harms trees. Tree trunks are often damaged at the spot where the hose rests against the bark. Sometimes trees are strangled and die. Don't put tree ties right below the first branches. This is a vulnerable spot on a tree. Trees commonly snap off here in the wind. Don't set stakes so close to the tree that the tree rubs against them in the wind. This wounds the trunk of the tree. Don't tie the tree tight. This strangles the tree. A tree grows more than 1½" around for every ¼ inch it grows in radius (Remember the formula; circumference=2%r from geometry class?). Don't use abrasive tree ties. Baler twine is one example. Rubbing in the wind causes wounds on the trunk of the tree.

Don’t tie trees to fenceposts with wire-- even wire covered with hose. It harms trees! Be sure to remove all stakes and ties before the end of the first season of growth. Links for More Information: ° The New Way to    Plant Trees

Mulching saves work, saves water and results in healthier trees and shrubs.

After the Trees are Planted Maintenance the First Few Years Once new trees are planted, there is maintenance involved. Watering, mulching and weed control are the most important tasks for the first two to three years until the plants get established. This section is a concise guide to tree care during the first few years. You can find more detailed information on mulch, pruning, fertilization, staking and insect and disease control in other sections of this manual. Watering—Water is a limiting factor for plant growth and establishment. A newly planted tree needs frequent watering. Water daily for 1-2 weeks and every other day for 1-3 months. Water weekly after that. Trees that are under 2 inches in caliper at the time of planting, need the least watering. Trees over 4 inches in caliper need the most. Each time you water, give the tree at least a gallon of water for each inch of caliper. An easy way to water new trees is to lay a hose on the ground near the plant and let it run slowly for up to an hour. Let it run slow enough that if you stuck it in your mouth (like you did when you were a kid) you could drink it as fast as water runs out. A soaker hose that lets water ooze and drip out is handy for rows or masses of shrubs or trees transplanted with a spade. Be generous with water, especially on a well drained soil. A tree transplanted with a tree spade may need up to 100 gallons of water at a time. Adjust the amount of water applied depending on plant size, soil type and the amount of rainfall received. If water puddles around the tree and doesn't drain in away in an hour or two, you've watered to much. Mulching—Apply four inches of wood chips or other degradable mulch over the root zone of the plant. This helps to improve soil structure and aeration, keep roots cool and moist, control weeds, and keeps lawnmowers and weed whips away from the base of the plant. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk of the tree. This helps prevent bark rotting and rodent feeding. Weed Control—The mulch you added will prevent most weed growth, but a few are bound to grow around your new plants anyway. Pull weeds out by hand. Use care not to mix soil with the mulch as you pull, or you'll find that weeds multiply there. Weed whips injure bark and kill new trees--don't use them. Avoid use of weed-killers (herbicide) around young trees--your new plant doesn't know that it's not a weed! Careful use of herbicide by an experienced applicator is helpful to spot spray weeds in large areas or to keep grass from spreading into the chipped area--use with care! Pruning—At planting time, prune only branches which are dead, diseased, broken or rubbing. Start pruning to improve plant form or direct growth during the first or second winter after planting. Most pruning is best done during the winter when trees are dormant. If you must prune during the summer, choose a dry day to reduce the spread of canker diseases. Make pruning cuts at a branch union. Most wounds are best left open to the air. Do not use tree wound dressing except in these special situations: Oak trees wounded between April 15 and July 1 Elm trees wounded in summer.

The best way to insure the successful establishment of your newly planted trees is to provide frequent watering. Updated recommendations call for daily watering during the first 1-2 weeks. Each dose should be 1-1½ gallons per inch of caliper.

All new trees need: ° Watering ° Mulching ° Weed Control ° Pruning. Some new trees need: ° Fertilization ° Staking ° Tree wrap ° Rodent protection ° Insect and disease    control ° Protection from    mechanical injury.

Fertilization— Generally, trees do not need fertilization at the time of planting. When a soil test shows the need for fertilizer, choose one with slow-release nitrogen. Mix it into the back-fill soil. Fertilize your new tree the second autumn after planting as the leaves change color. Apply nitrogen alone, or a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Choose a granular product with slow release nitrogen and broadcast it over the ground under the branch spread of the tree. The fertilizer can also be placed directly into the root zone of the tree by using a root feeder or by putting fertilizer granules into pre-drilled holes in the soil. Do not apply fertilizer more than once each year. Fertilize in spring (before or while leaves emerge) or in autumn (after leaves change color). Staking— Trees rarely need staking. If yours has a small root ball, spindly growth, is in very wet soil, exposed to very high winds, or at risk of vandalism, you may need to stake. Use a wide, flexible band to attach the tree to the stakes. Tie loosely to allow the tree to move in wind. Remove stakes and ties within one year. Tree Wrap— Most trees don't need wrapping. Young trees with smooth, thin bark, such as fruit trees, maples and lindens do need wrapping each winter until they grow thicker bark. Winter sun can cause sunscald when it shines intensely on the south side of the tree or when there is a lot of reflected heat and light from buildings or pavement. Use tree wrap that is lighter in color than the tree bark. Wrap the tree in fall starting at the base and wrapping to the first branch. Remove wrap in March. Rodent Protection— To protect the trunks of flowering and fruit-bearing trees from rodents gnawing during the winter, place a cage of ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth around the trunk from just below the soil line up to the lowest branches. This cage can remain on the tree year-round. Be sure that it is large enough that it will not constrict the trunk as the tree grows. Insect and Disease Control— Check your new trees each week. Look for problems. If you find a one that you don't recognize, consult a professional for a diagnosis. Many problems are best left untreated, but some can cause real problems. Follow your tree professional's advice exactly when you treat an insect or disease problem. Avoid wounding new trees, especially during the growing season. Wounds invite insect and disease problems. Preventing Mechanical Injury–Trees in lawn areas are particularly prone to human damage. Lawnmowers and weed whips are at the top of the list. If you cannot keep these deadly machines away from new trees, protect them with a guard. Cut a slit down the side of a foot long cylinder of large diameter (greater than four inches) plastic drain tile and set it around the base of the tree trunk. An ice cream pail without it's bottom works, too.

Rx for Trees Transplant Stress or 'Shock' and How to Reduce It Yes, trees suffer from stress too. During transplanting trees lose a significant part of their root system. An 18-foot tall evergreen tree, moved with a tree spade, loses up to 95 percent of its roots in the process. Growth is normally in balance, but once a portion of the root system is lost, the tree suffers. When the balance of growth is restored, plants are able to grow and reproduce without maintenance and are considered established. During the period of establishment much of the tree's energy reserves are being used to produce new roots. The tree may be particularly vulnerable to attack by secondary insect and disease organisms, such as borers and canker fungi. Take care of trees before, during and after planting to reduce the effects of transplant stress. The Top 12 Causes of Young Tree Failure During the First Five Years 1. Improper Species Selection: Selecting the wrong species for the site. 2. Poor Site Preparation and Drainage: Poor soil management often leads to poor soil drainage. 3. Planting Too Deep: This error can kill trees in all soils, but especially in heavy soils. 4. Lack of Watering: Water is the most important ingredient in tree survival. Too much or too little causes tree problems. 5. Planting Non-Hardy Plant Stock: Non-hardy stock will die or suffer crown and trunk injury in cold winters. 6. Poor Care In Nursery and In Shipping and Handling: Trees are a perishable product when out of the ground. Digging, storage, transportation and temporary holding areas are all potential failure points. 7. Planting Too Late In Spring: Bareroot and B&B plantings often fail if planted during hot, dry periods in late spring and early summer. 8. Weather: Extremely dry, hot, windy or wet weather can severely damage young trees. Hard spring freezes after leaf-out, or cold snaps before trees harden off, can be devastating. Hail, ice storm and wind-storm damage can provide entry points for diseases, and may even destroy plants. 9. Animal Injury: Meadow, prairie and pine voles, rabbits, deer, pocket gophers and wood chucks are all potential killers or injury agents, especially in unmowed, more natural areas. 10. Insects and Diseases: Recently planted trees are vulnerable to defoliating insects and trunk borers. Canker and wilt diseases commonly cause failure. 11. Herbicide Injury: Soil sterilants in fence lines, herbicide runoff from farm fields, herbicide carryover and spray drift are known killers of young and old trees. 12. Mechanical Injury: Weed whips, lawn mowers, construction activities, vehicles, vandalism and improper pruning can kill outright or cause slow deaths for trees by severely limiting water and food transport within the trunk area of the tree.

During the period of establishment, a tree uses much of its energy reserves to produce new roots. It takes about one year per inch of trunk diameter for a tree to become established in a new location. The Top 12 Causes of Young Tree Failure During the First Five Years is by Katharine Widin and Paul Walvatne. Presented at the 1992 Shade Tree Short Course, University of Minnesota.

More tree killers: ° Wire, twine, chains    or cables wrapped    around the trunk ° Plastic weed barriers ° Soil compaction ° Under-watering ° Over-watering ° De-icing salt. Links for More Information: ° Take Care of Your    Trees ° Prune Trees ° Give Trees a    Chance

Avoid Tree Killers There are a number of sure-fire ways to kill trees and, in some cases, it only takes a few seconds to complete the dirty deed. Here are some "tree killers" to avoid: Planting non-hardy plants Choosing the wrong tree for the site Poor site preparation and drainage Not enough or too much water Lawnmowers and weed whips Herbicide (weed-killer) injury Lowering the soil level around roots Cutting tree roots. Get the picture? Avoid "tree killers" by following the guidelines regarding tree and site selection and proper planting and maintenance practices. Where Do We Go From Here? The trees are in the ground and watered. The tools are cleaned up. Most of the volunteers went home. Some still wander around, beaming with pride over the work you accomplished together. The organizing committee meets among the newly planted trees thinking of how the site will look 10 years down the road. Now what? It's time to step back, evaluate your project and look to the future. Maybe you need to start planning a project for next year or continue to inform yourselves about tree care. Good luck! Tree killers at work.